How to make a professional fake ID

Option 1: Basic Method
Option 2: Professional Method: How to make a professional fake ID
1. Gather your supplies. There are a few choices between materials, so it is important to be familiar with the method below before acquiring your supplies so that you have the correct materials to work with your home printer. Here's a basic list of what you'll need:
- Teslin paper
- Butterfly laminate pouches
- A pouch laminator
- An encoder to encode the magnetic strip on the pouch (optional).
Gather your supplies


2. Find an ID template. You can search for templates by state or province. They'll help you make sure you're making a product that's as realistic as possible.
- Go to my home page to find a template.
Find an ID template


3. Download an editing program to alter your template. By using Adobe Photoshop or Macromedia Fireworks - or a free program like GIMP - you should easily be able to edit the templates. (Adobe Photoshop is the most common photo-editing software program used today, but can be expensive to purchase; however, a free, full-featured trial version is available on Adobe's website.). You can download here!

4. Change the text fields. Most standard IDs use the font 'Arial' that comes with Windows. If you prefer to use specialty fonts that do not come with Windows (such as a font for signatures), you can download font photoshop and install them.

5. Edit the eye and hair color fields. Here are the standard three-letter listings for eye and hair color used in the United States:
- Eye color:
+ BLK - Black
+ GRY - Gray
+ MAR - Maroon (usually used for albinism)
+ BLU - Blue
+ GR – Green
+ PNK - Pink
+ BRO – Brown
+ HZL - Hazel
+ MUL – Multicolor

- Hair color:
+ BAL – Bald
+ BRO – Brown
+ SDY - Sandy
+ BLK - Black
+ GRY - Gray
+ WHI - White
+ BLN – Blonde
+ RED – Red

6. Add restriction/endorsement codes. Some are rarely used but others, like restriction code B, are quite common. Here are a list of some of the more popular codes in the US:
- Restriction codes:
+ A - No restriction
+ B - Corrective lenses
+ C - Mechanical aids
+ D - Business only
+ G - Daylight only
+ H - Employer's vehicle only
+ J - Prosthetic aid
+ Q - No passengers
+ R - Motorcycles 500 cc and under
+ S - To and from school
+ T - To and from medical
+ U - All motorcycles except Class X
+ 2 - Personal vehicles only

- Endorsement codes:
+ M - Motorcycle endorsement for any motorcycle regardless of engine displacement.
+ P - Passenger vehicles designed to carry 16 or more persons, including the driver.
+ T - Double/triple trailers allowed.
+ Y - Farm endorsement (Class A).

7. Scan in the photo and signature image files. The signature on your ID might not get much attention, but the photo definitely will. Consider these guidelines:
- If you take your own photo, try to do it against a blank background in bright or neutral lighting, and keep the frame focused around your face. You shouldn't be able to see your shoulders in the photo.
- Use your passport photo. If you've taken a picture for a US passport, you can try using that for your fake ID. After scanning the passport photo into the computer, the person's face will need to be separated from the background so it flows seamlessly with your ID card template. #**Programs such as Adobe Photoshop, Macromedia Fireworks or GIMP, provide you with an image editing tool called "Magic Wand". This tool will allow you to click a color in the image and it will select all surrounding colors that are similar or the same. There will be a slider that will allow you to select the amount of variance from the color you select. The higher the variance, the more of the image that will be selected.
- Once the background is nearly fully selected without containing any of the person's face, press 'Delete' on your keyboard to erase it. You can then magnify the image and use the eraser tool to clean up around the person's face. At this point, zoom out and copy the image. It can be pasted onto your ID card template. It will then flow seamlessly into your template design and you can choose any background color you want!
Scan in the photo and signature image files


8. Add a barcode. The unusual-looking scrambled barcode on the back of most driver’s licenses is known as a PDF417 barcode. This barcode contains most of the information contained on the front of the license. By editing this readout, you can encode your information into this barcode. You can generate these barcodes by finding a free PDF417 generator online.
Add a barcode


9. Add a magnetic stripe. If your license requires a magnetic stripe and you want it to be scannable, it can be encoded with an encoder. Generally these are very expensive and are difficult to find. Search online for discount suppliers if you like.
There are two types of magnetic stripes, HiCo and LoCo. HiCo and LoCo differ in that HiCo are much more difficult to demagnetize. The encoders for these typically were much more expensive than for LoCo. Most HiCo encoders encode LoCo stripes as well.
The best way to program the stripe is to decode a working driver’s license, edit the data, and then program it back onto the stripe. Encode the magnetic stripe after the card is finished.
Add a magnetic stripe


10. Buy synthetic paper. There are two types of synthetic paper that are nearly the same. Teslin and Artisyn paper are single layer, silica-filled, polyolefin printing substrate with unique microporous and temperature resistance features that make it the product of choice for laminated ID badges.
- Teslin is more expensive than Artisyn and much less versatile.
- If you want to use a desktop inkjet printer, you will achieve better results with Artisyn or Artisyn NanoExtreme synthetic paper. Printing on Teslin with an inkjet does not work well and tends to look grainy and smeared.
- The Artisyn and Artisyn NanoExtreme papers are coated with chemicals to absorb the ink effectively. They are cheaper than Teslin, and work well with all types of printers including inkjet and laser printers. It also tends to produce better print-quality results.
- Both types can be found from sources online. Arcadia also sells perforated sheets that punch out in the size of the ID cards.
Buy synthetic paper


11. Select your printer. The preferred method is to use a pigmented-based inkjet printer like an Epson printer with DuraBrite ink. This tends to produce incredible results and works well with Teslin, even though it is not a laser printer.
- If a pigmented ink printer is not available, a laser printer will give you a good result. Laser printers produce sharp and clear images, but the ink tends to look waxy.
- Any dye-based inkjet printer will work fine. A dye-based inkjet printer is that standard color printer that most people have in their homes. Again, if you use dye-based inks, make sure to use Artisyn. You should print on the highest quality photo settings.
Select your printer


12. Print the ID. Print on one sheet of paper, both front and back.

13. Cut out the ID. If you are using microperforated Artisyn, you can skip this step. Otherwise, start by cutting out the ID from the paper. Tracing the dimensions of the ID using a butterfly pouch is generally helpful. A paper cutter or X-Acto knife is also helpful.

14. Locate a laminator. You must use thermal laminating in order to bond the butterfly pouch to the synthetic paper. Once laminated, the card will harden and resemble a PVC card. You must use a thermal (heat) pouch laminator.
- Avery, Arcadia EasyIDea, or GBC are common manufacturers.
- If you can't afford a laminator then you can use a standard home iron. This is a little more tricky as you have to make sure the iron doesn't get so hot that it melts the laminate plastic, but is still hot enough to bond the laminate to your ID. Also be sure the iron does not have any water loaded into it, as this could damage the ink on the pre-laminated ID and the steam could warp the ID card. It is recommended, when using an iron, to cover the card with a towel or t-shirt, or paper bag, so that the plastic does not melt to the iron.
Locate a laminator


15. Laminate the ID. Place the insert into the butterfly pouch. You must place the card into a carrier. Run the carrier through the laminator.
- Immediately following lamination, it is helpful to place the card under something flat like a book so that it cools flat.

16. Apply a hologram. Generally, it is acceptable to use a generic hologram. Very few people actually examine the hologram and read what it says on it. If you’re concerned about making something that looks truly authentic, there are other methods to replicate holograms.
- The Shield and Key hologram is the most commonly used generic hologram and is a transparent rainbow hologram. This means that it looks transparent when looked at directly but when tilted to the sides the hologram lets off a rainbow spectrum. This type of hologram is pretty much impossible to duplicate using the Pearl-Ex method below.
- Make your own hologram (optional). See the method below for making your own hologram.
Apply a hologram


17. Add finishing touches. It is recommended that you sand the edges of the hologram with a very fine grit sandpaper. This removes the jagged edges of the synthetic paper.
* To give the ID a more worn look, you can lightly sand the front and back of it.

Option 1: Basic Method
Option 2: Professional Method: How to make a professional fake ID