1. Step 1: Scan an ID into your computer or printer. Make sure to get the front and back, and note any holographic elements. Get an ID PSD here!
2. Step 2: Open your scan in an image editing program. Photoshop would be ideal for this, but you can also use free programs like GIMP and Paint.net.
3. Step 3: Insert the new photo. Try to get a photo that's roughly the same resolution and size as the one on the valid ID.
- Zoom in or out of the new photo so that the head will be about the same size as in the original photo.
- You can also adjust the contrast and brightness to match the original photo. As long as the new pic isn't too bright or too dark, you're probably fine.
4. Step 4: Change the text fields. Try to find a font that's close to the one on the current ID. (Courier, with slab serif, was used on a lot of older licenses.) Also, adjust the font size and spacing so that it matches as closely as possible.
- Enter a full name, without abbreviations. The only instance in which you might use an abbreviation is for things like "Albert Smith Jr." or "Thomas Jones III."
- Put in a realistic birth date. If you're using a particularly old ID as a template, you don't want to keep it so that it says the new person was born in 1951 but looks 20.
- Match the hair and eye color fields to the photo. See below for a list of abbreviations.
5. Step 5: Print out your new ID on heavy cardstock. Be sure to print both the front and back.
6. Step 6: Cut out each side of the new ID.
7. Step 7: Glue the two sides together so they form a card. Trim any overlapping edges.
8. Step 8: Add any holograms (optional). If you'd like to add an extra layer of authenticity to the ID, you can add a hologram. See the Making Your Own Hologram section below for more help, and be sure you do it before you laminate the ID.
9. Step 9: Laminate the paper ID. Trim the laminate so it's about 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) from the edge of the paper.